off-topic

Heya Folks,
It seems that September has been a particularly 'noisy' month blogwise, what with my birthday and catching up on all the parts of my ter-ravels with Dad. I hope that you are enjoying all the posts, please feel free to email me or leave a comment; though a blog is, by design, a one-sided conversation, it is sometimes nice to get a reply :).

You might also note that there has been a rapid succession of dramatic updates to the design and content of the blog, with the particular addition of kooky extras if you care to divert your eyes right. ---------------------------------------------->

The reasons for this are twofold. Firstly, I have had a quiet teaching week, and occupied my free time by 'messing around' on this site :). Secondly, I have come to the realisation that I have LOVED keeping a web record of my adventures in Hanoi; It began as an online diary and email shortcut, but I feel I may have evolved from that, and genuinely enjoy the creativity of composing posts. Its not something I really want to give up, when I give up the adventure this November; so I'm using my Renaissance-Soul brain to find a way of keeping a presence on the web next year.

As an astronmer might have said at some point....'Watch This Space'

SarahHeadsEast xx

Hoi An

We arrived in Hoi An after another flight on 'Sellotape Airlines' and another seemingly never-ending taxi ride. Wandering down one of the streets of the old quarter to find food, we could see that it was worth it. Hoi An is simply adorable, and it well-deserves its place on every traveler's itinerary. The well-preserved ancient houses, lack of modernisation and the notable absence of cars and motorbikes in the old town all lend it a wistful, romantic feel. It's what you'd like to believe the whole of Vietnam is like, or was like.
We spent the whole of our time in Hoi An agenda-less, content to simply wander and soak up the atmosphere. This is the best way to enjoy the place. The Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and thankfully has been preserved as such, with the ancient houses, pagodas and pedestrianised streets the very epitomy of 'charm'. It's a sad contrast to think that underneath all the tourist tat shops, high rises and motorbike-clog of Hanoi's Old Quarter, the same could be found.

Allowing ourselves the exertion of a boat ride, we comandeered a Vietnamese lady to sail us down the Thu Bon river a little way. This was a great way of exploring a little further and, of course, relaxing. We fell into a bit of a tourist scam involving a photograph of a fishing boat, but shrugged it off. Fair Cop. You can't win 'em all...
Back on dry land, one of the best finds was 'Reaching Out', a handicraft and fabric shop employing only disabled and disadvantaged Vietnamese people in their workshop, which you can go and visit. All of the products are beautiful and very well-made, which made it an excellant place to buy our gifts and souvenirs. If you head to Hoi An, check it out.

SarahHeadsEast xx

Like this Post?
Click here for more info on 'Reaching Out'

Art for Art's Sake

After a short flight on a plane so tiny it used actual chocks, and an unnerving taxi ride marginally longer than the flight, we arrived in the central highlands of Vietnam, and Dalat. The change in the air was immediately noticeable after the lung-clogging of the previous two cities. It was clear, clean, fresh and cool; lending the city the pace and atmosphere not unlike that of an Alpine ski resort. It was a strange but pleasing contrast, after melting in HCMC, to see Vietnamese people wrapped up in coats, scarves and gloves in the central market.
We were blessed with a fabulous quiet hotel and the nicest hoteliers you could ever wish to meet, and immediately decided that we had been lucky with travel plans that allowed three days here and not two. The central market was fab and loud and busy and chaotic in true Asian style, and as our first introduction to the city it was great.
Hiring a car on the second day, we went out into the surrounding countryside and explored a fabulous forrest, took a jeep up to the top of a mountain, and then went into the Lat minority village to meet the very happy and animated village leader. He was great fun, and as it turned out was very intelligent, serving as a nurse during the American war. Love to see in rapidly growing Vietnam, people remaining close and true to their roots and traditions.
One of the best and 'mmm, arty...' moments came when we visited the Nha Hang Nga; what happens when an artist and architect meet the resources to fully realise their creative ambitions. Walking around the many twisty tunnels, stairs and corridors of the building is a little like being in a huge Alice-in-Wonderland themed adventure playground, with secret passageways, crazily-shaped rooms and random animal statues everywhere.
I loved it. No discernible reason for being. Just Art for Art's sake.

SarahHeadsEast xx

"all that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing"

Politicians who jusitify war in terms of abstract concepts; of moral victories, borders moved, one doctrine succeeding over the other, ought to take a visit to the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City.

The War 'remnants' refers not only to the American tanks, helicopters and other aircraft preserved in the museum courtyard, but to the stories documented inside; the stories of those affected on both sides, and the legacy of those still affected today. It's horrifying. It's shocking. It's moving. It's most definitely Not-Sugar-Coated.
It tells the story not from the perspective of military historians or archivists, but documents 'What Really Happened' in Vietnam during the American War. Namely the destruction of villages, towns and cities, the torture and murder of men, women and children throughout the country, the use of chemical warfare, and the futile deaths of American servicemen, Vietcong fighters, South Vietnamese soldiers and hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese civilians.
Perhaps the most haunting displays are those on the groundfloor graphically detailing the devastating effect of chemical weapons, from the generations of birth defects caused by exposure to Agent Orange, to the haunting image of a mother and son quite literally incinerated by a Napalm Attack.

The Museum's cataloguing of the personal anthologies of the American War makes for a harrowing and difficult but ultimately important and worthwhile visit. It reminds us that war, any war, must be examined and understood by its specifics, as well as by the ideologies - geographical, political or religious - of the opponents.

The exhibitions in the museum, particularly those on the ground floor, are a vital reminder to us all that
Firstly - War does NOT end when generals in comfy offices shake hands over a signature,
and Secondly - that the use of chemical weapons in a warzone is pointless and ridiculous and horrible and unnecessary and futile and futile and futile.

I hope that from this post, and from the blog as a whole, the distinction is clear between 'War Tourism' and 'Global Awareness'. I think its not just down to the individual conscience to visit these places and learn about the horrors of the past, but a fundamental responsibility to know what goes on in the world. Ignorance is a crime too, and it's only by becoming aware of humanitarian issues both past and present, that we can become part of the knowledge and the message that

"This Must Not Happen"

SarahHeadsEast xx


Like this Post?
Click here for similar thoughts on Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Halong Bay Again...

...and it only gets better and better each time I go. I hadnt realised just how hard I had been working in Hanoi, and how much I needed a holiday, until we arrived in Halong Bay, boarded our boat and unpacked into our cosy cabins for the trip. I was really impressed with how comfortable the boat was, and the food wasnt half bad either.

Cruising around the bay is quite possibly the most relaxing thing in-the-world-bar-none, and the sun was out for the whole trip making the experience even better. Though we spent most of the time simply with some worthwhile and necessary relaxation, we did break through with some exercise on day two with a short cycle ride on Cat Ba Island, and a quick dip in the sea at Monkey Island.
Dad thought the whole thing was terrific, and a great start to the holiday.

SarahHeadsEast xx

What's the collective noun for blog posts?
a bloggett? a blodge?

Anyway, I have been away from Hanoi for nearly two weeks ter-ravelling with my dad, so here is a whole feast of posts in one go.

Enjoy!

SarahHeadsEast xx

Captain Karioke

Hey Folks,
Last weekend I ticked off my quarter-century and celebrated my 25th Birthday in Hanoi. If this city does one thing well, it's Birthdays. It all kicked off on thursday when I invited the great and good of my expat chums to an Indian restaurant on the shores of Truch Bach lake. I felt very lucky to have such a great and varied bunch of people to celebrate with; out of 12 attending, I was the only English teacher, and one of only two Brits. We polished off some really cracking Indian dishes and then headed to nearby Sofitel Hotel for posh beverages. The hotel bar is on the top floor, and the nightime cityscape of Hanoi was truly amazing. With all my Hanoi pals around, looking out at the amazing view, I couldnt help but marvel again at how lucky I am to be here in this incredible city.
Saturday came around, and I spent the day lazily (as one should on ones birthday), stuffing my face at Jomas and then walking along to Ailu Cat Cafe to hang out with Hanoi's fabbest felines. There cant be many better ways to while away the afternoon than with a book and a coffee and a cat in your lap...
There really is only one way to truly celebrate a birthday in Vietnam, and thats at the Karioke bar. So come saturday evening I headed off to the X-Men club in Dong Da for the most amazing karioke party ever! With 99% Vietnamese attendance, it was sure to be authentic and fun and genuine in only the best Hanoian way. I was truly overwhelmed to see how many friends I have here, and so happy that they all turned out to celebrate with me. After being crowned 'Captain Karioke' and presented with an X-Men sailor cap, I belted out the long-standing favourites of Hanoi karioke 'Let it Be', 'Stand By Me' and 'What is Love', as well as the one and only Vietnamese song I can remember all the way through!

The evening melted into a bur of mingling, singing, dancing, eating cake and taking photographs. The sore throat this week is TOTALLY worth it. It was honestly one of the best nights of my life. I was so happy that I thought I might explode if it got any better! I had a constant feeling of wanting to laugh, smile, sing, dance and cry all at the same time.
One Truly Amazing Night.

SarahHeadsEast xx

PS - I'm so lucky to have Vietnamese friends with such wicked creative talent. Check out this fab photo and video montage of the night from Enjoy